Winding our way through highlands dripping in green, peering through the banana trees and vines into the fern lined gorges below, we were oblivious to the dangers that had preceded us in the obscurity of nightfall. The Colombian border crossing had been weighed down with such stigma, that we initially sat rigid in our bus seats feeling as tightly strung as guitar strings, unable to recline and relax for the first hour. However with panoramic views sweeping past us as we wound through the mountains and left the men with their shiny boots, army uniforms and massive, pump action shotguns behind us, and with locals boarding our bus flashing fresh fruits, banana chips and deep fried chicken, our fears evaporated into the late afternoon’s steamy air.
A preemptive decision, we chose an enduring day bus, rather than face the dangers of running the gauntlet from Pasto to Popayan during the evening. Sitting in air conditioned comfort, we flitted away the hours in oblivious reverie… It was only a few days later that we found out that every single night bus for the previous two weeks had been consecutively held up at gun point by bandits, with all bags and possessions mercilessly disappearing into the night.
Despite this unsavory news, Colombia has somehow managed to unseat the previous countries we have declared as the most breathtaking. The land is so fertile that I dare say I could subsist just from plucking the pickings from the trees I come across.
Driving away from the coastline, we were alert with anticipation as we headed toward one of Colombia’s three coffee regions. Salento, perched among the cumulonimbi castles in the sky had surrounds that looked like the glowing pictures that are meant to look heavenly and godlike in those Jehovah Witness ‘Watch Tower’ magazines that door knockers forcibly leave. The rolling hills were a patchwork of hyper coloured greens. It was so…serene, so stylish, so loveable!
Buoyed by atleast three coffees a day, we trekked, climbed, trolloped and surveyed the land in our black gumboots. A caffeine induced energy attracted canine friends who showed us the way along coffee lined paths into lush valleys and across bubbling brooks.
The Cocora Valley, though widely publicized was as eery, thought provoking and magical as anticipated. The lanky, swaying wax palms springing out of the dense rainforest gave the valley a prehistoric air, with Sam and I feeling like we had stumbled across this incredible treasure for the first time in humanity.
This country, once considered too dangerous is beginning to boom. Its resources, its untapped beauty and as you will see, its style and design are going to become the priceless wonders that everyone will travel to see. And we are here now. I feel so blessed.
Filed under: Colombia, SOUTH AMERICA, TRAVEL
